Birds of Phuket

Another casualty, this time a dolphin, washed up dead on Mai Khao beach this morning.

-Reasons for death?

Take a guess. I needn’t say more.

Sapan Hin has been off my checklist as of late, mostly due to the weather and my reluctance to go birding in such a dreary looking place. Despite the potential, it is smelly and the presence of so many flies, dogs and unfriendly people (watch out!) makes it quite an inhospitable place.Anyhow, I decided to go for a short stop on this cloudy morning and see what was available. Large billed Crow outnumbered the smaller House Crow, and this time I only counted 12. Could they be dispersing? -Or dying out? White Vented Myna also outnumbered the Common. Two Little Cormorant were present, again making me wonder what their wintering status is. Lesser Whistling Duck were flushed from reeds near a pond and Little Grebe were also seen near the middle of the same pond.

Other birds seen were Barred Buttonquail, White breasted Waterhen, Scaly Breasted Munia, Spotted Dove, Zebra Dove, Whimbrel, Plain backed Sparrow, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Brahminy Kite, Collared Kingfisher and Glossy Starling.

I’m sure there was more but I didn’t write down what at saw at the moment and I forgot. Perhaps I suffer from acute memory loss. (It can happen when “Dory” from “Finding Nemo” is one of your favorite cartoon characters.)

The disturbing sight of men armed with slingshots shooting at birds proved to be too common around here. -I counted four groups of men shooting at Spotted Dove and House Crow. One Large billed Crow had a broken wing and was floundering about on the ground when I drove by. Could this be what has been happening to the House Crow and the reason why they are disappearing? When I asked one of the men what they do with the bird after they maim or kill it, their reply was simple: “nothing.” Certainly one cannot eat something as small as a dove (although some locals are VERY good at getting meat out of anything, even an animal the size of zooplankton) so the consensus is this act of cruelty is done in the name of sport.

It’s very disappointing to see, but really, what can one do to change the minds of these people?

An interesting comment came into my box the other day from Mr. Wesley. He writes:

“I live in Phuket not too far from the jungle/mountains in a small village and we have lots of interesting birds on the rooftops and the power lines. I enjoy watching them from my office and was wondering if it is a good idea to put a bird bath or a birdfeeder or both on my balcony. If so do you recommend a place to buy the bird feed and birdbath?”

These are good questions. I’ll try to answer a few of them.

First off, I’m sorry to say this, but Thai birds are not as friendly as “falang” birds. (I think it also depends what birds we are talking about. Thai “chicks” are much friendlier than falang “chicks” but that is a completely different topic!) The American Robin, for example, not only nests near human residences, but will feed from an open windowsill. Here in Thailand, the closest relative of the American species will have to be the Oriental Magpie Robin (bear with me all you ornithologists) which will also nest near human habitations but is more likely to get eaten near a windowsill than to be fed from a windowsill.

-The biggest problem? I think you may have guessed it already.

Thai people persecute birds. This is not a “new” problem we are facing. Thais are not intelligent when it comes to conservation or treatment of animals in general. Look at any Thai household pet and you’ll notice the stark difference between the Thai and foreign ideology regarding humane treatment of animals. Household cats in Thailand get tossed, squished, poked, kicked and bitten (don’t believe me? My grandmother’s cat can tell you!), just to name a few of the less serious crimes. Thai dogs suffer the same and more. For example, it’s not uncommon to see a dog with spray paint all over itself. -Don’t tell me the dog accidentally mixed up the paint with the deodorant! Think of what that does to the dogs’ respiratory system! -Worse yet, Thais seem to think it’s FUN.

Anyhow, we weren’t supposed to be talking about this so let’s get back to the main topic.

Birds in Thailand try as much as possible to avoid people, unless they are sick or have the IQ equalvalent to that of chicken. However, there are some “tolerant” birds which will be more than happy for a handout. The most common are usually the ones we try to avoid the most: the Large billed Crow and Common Myna. These species are just not fun to have around as they are loud, ill-mannered and messy eaters. -Not to mention they have huge appetites!

Smaller birds such as sparrow, munias, and bulbuls are pleasant to observe and I often find they appreciate servings of millet and grass seed, both of which can be obtained at your local birdfeed shop. The bird feeders I use are nothing elaborate: a simple waterbottle or juice carton with the two of the four sides cut out and a three-inch space at the bottom for food. This can be strung up from the roof or under a tree and the birds will eventually find it, if the ants don’t get to it first! Despite the fact that it is not a “store bought” item, if tastefully crafted, the carton can actually look quite professional!

Doves such as the Spotted Dove and the smaller Zebra Dove also can be quite friendly and require a bigger feeder. An old plate with bits of old corn, bread crumbs, raw rice or other dry seeds are popular with these birds and they will often enjoy millet seed as well. Place the plate in an open space and if there are no cats or dogs about, you’ll soon have a regular group of customers coming for lunch.

If your home is near the forest or there is tall vegetation nearby, you might be able to find Vernal hanging Parrot, a small green parrot with a shrill call and a high IQ. These birds are attracted to fruits such as banana and papaya. Try hanging (or tying) a bunch of bananas to a lower branch of a tree or bush. You might end up attracting other species of bird such as Scarlet backed Flowerpecker, Orange bellied Flowerpecker and a variety of sunbirds, all of which are simply gorgeous! -Just be sure not to put too large of a bunch up, as no doubt some of the bananas will go bad before the birds get to them. Its best to hang them in a location where the birds are known to frequent, i.e. a location near a patch of blooming hibiscus, and don’t forget to peel half of the banana so the birds can access the inside!

Bird baths, from what I’ve seen, are less than popular but again, perhaps birds where you live would appreciate it. A shallow pan (like a water pan for a clay planter pot) works well but must be changed daily to avoid algae buildup which is most certainly going to keep the birds away.

Some notable sightings for last month:

A single Greater Racket-tailed Drongo on the Chao Fah - PSU bypass road on the 12th was a refreshing find, since this bird is not as easily found in the south as one would hope. A Jungle Myna, wet with rain was also seen in a low tree a week later on the same road.

Two Little Cormorant were seen in flight over the Central - Darasamut intersection on the 28th, making me wonder again about the status of this bird as a resident and winter migrant. Raptors for May included a Grey faced Buzzard over Loch Palm Golf club on the 6th and a Crested Honey Buzzard near PSU on the 18th.

A carcass of what appeared to be a Pigmy Sperm Whale washed up on Patong beach on the 4th. The whale had died from a bloated stomach which was stuffed with pollution. The biggest culprits were plastic bags, old rigging, foam and other floating devices, according to the Thai Rath Newspaper.

Turtles are washing up dead every year with a stomach full of pastic bags. Sharks which have made their way to the Chinese kitchen have also been found to contain non-edible items ranging from fishing tackle to aluminum foil. Our coasts are becoming cesspools and it won’t take long until they start to look like the rotting canals of Bangkok; lifeless, unihabitable and toxic.

Take for example, the beach resort town of Pattaya. Pattaya was once a beautiful beach and when I was young I used to frequent it with my parents, who owned a resort home near Bang Saen. That was 1982. Back then we were advised not to go into the water as there was too much pollution. Yet, despite the sand fleas, the beach was still beautiful. By 1992, our beach trips didn’t go further than the roadside where we’d stop to eat somtam and gai yang. -Who wants to go swimming in a beach littered with bamboo poles, fishing line, rope, oil slicks, tar patches and dead fish? -Not to mention the water smelled!

I haven’t been to Pattaya for more than 15 years, but today most Thais I talk to say the same thing: “Pattaya stinks.” “Pattaya has been ruined.” “-Who wants to go to Pattaya?”

Will Thai people be saying the same thing about Phuket in 10 years time? Patong is already a mess and the beaches are not always as clean as they can be. What needs to be done to avoid Phuket from becoming the next tourist wasteland and following the same fate as Pattaya did 20 years ago?

A front-page photo story in the Thai Rath newspaper for May 24th showed four of men caught red-handed felling trees in Khao Panom Bencha National Park in Krabi. Among the items confiscated were three shotguns, a pistol, sixteen logs and a chainsaw. Normally, an arrest such as this would not have stirred any feelings of shock among the locals but this time it really hit home: the man arrested just happened to be the head of a village and a revered elder. The three men accompanying him were all armed, with the job of protecting him as he worked to fell the trees.

Various NGOs have worked hard to educate the people in Krabi of the value of the forests and the importance of preserving the flora and fauna of the region, especially in areas such as KNCC and the other national parks. It seems like our target audience should be altered to focus on the local leaders, who in turn can use their position to influence the locals to revert from their old mindsets and embrace the concept of conservation. Reminding people that we are not living in the 1950s won’t make them stop cutting down trees or trapping birds and mammals for dinner. Reminding them that it will all soon be gone won’t change anything in their minds. Showing movies about global warming on TV aren’t going to stir the locals to stop destroying the forests. -But having a village headmaster enforcing the rules will make a big change for the better.

It has to come from the heart. -And as long as the hearts and minds of the village administration officials are locked on money rather than conservation, our national heritage will continue to suffer and be wasted at the hands of greedy men.

A Great billed Heron was seen in a marsh near Phuket airport on the morning of the 22nd. The bird was standing in tall reeds and finally took to flight, making one complete loop before heading east, probably towards the mangroves near Koh Maprao area.

What makes this sighting of interest is that the Great billed Heron is not a common bird for Thailand. Unlike its relatives, the Grey and Purple Herons, the Great billed is listed as rare in Round and Lekaguls’ ‘Field Guide to Birds of Thailand’ (1991, Saha Karn Bhaet) and is listed as “critically endangered” in Rounds’ ‘Field Checklist of Thai Birds’ (2000, BCST). However, the ICUN Red List it is evaluated as “least concern” due to its widespread distribution throughout Southeast Asia, the Indies and Australasia. In Thailand it is mainly confined to mangroves and coastal areas, although there was a single specimen resident in the canals of Nakorn Nayok some 10 years ago. Sightings of this bird have surfaced from time to time, with a fair number coming from the west coast. Ranong, Phang Nga and Phuket are rich in coastal flora and this is perhaps the reason why the species could have gone unnoticed for some time.

Consider this: with the exception of the mangrove and waterways of the Krabi river delta, most of the mangrove areas are rarely explored by veteran birdwatchers. Most of the locals who ply their trade along these rivers as fishermen choose to ignore the birds on the riverbanks. Thus, we have little knowledge of the whereabouts and distribution of this species in Thailand. There are huge tracts of mature mangroves in Ranong (where they have been seen on occasion), Phang Nga, Phuket and Krabi.

The Great Billed Heron was reportedly seen at the airport marsh almost a decade ago by a tourist birder who was killing some time before his flight home. I fancied the thought of finding it there, and for the past four years I faithfully scanned the area with my binoculars every time I passed the site. Besides the occasional Purple Swamphen or Common Moorhen, I often found myself staring, not at birds, but at locals setting mist nets to trap birds or fishermen clearing the muddy pools of any small fish that might still exist. With so much human incursion and little protection, I was basically counting the days until the swamp would be filled in for some housing development. The marsh on the left hand side of the road met this fate a few months ago.

I’ve seen the Great Billed twice in Phuket, both times in flight, and both times in either wetland habitat or mangroves (Sapan Hin and the airport marsh). It is easily differentiated from the Grey or Purple Herons by its slate-grey tones and its large bill, which when witnessed in flight almost looks chisel-ended. Its size is also a telling point, although once it is high in the sky it isn’t always easy to tell the size difference.

Last week the Samak government approved a 100-billion baht project to build a sprawling yacht marina and International Convention Center in Sapan Hin, a project designed to catapult Phuket into the international theater as a prime business destination, on par with the likes of Singapore and Hong Kong. The project, which could take up to five years to complete, will connect existing Sapan Hin with the Rassada Port, and will be capable of handling larger yachts than any of the current marinas can cope with, although it seems unlikely the marina will be serviceable to any superyachts.

A fourth marina, capable of servicing superyachts is being discussed, with Ao Por being a likely site for development.

Construction will begin as soon as the government approves the project, which is waiting on an environmental impact report from the natural resources department.

The government recognizes Phuket’s ability as a multifunctional destination for tourists and businessmen alike and has agreed to fuel its growth in order to groom it to become the most internationally reknown island in Southeast Asia. Whether or not it can overtake Singapore is a question most critics scoff at, as Singapore is decades ahead of Phuket in terms of financial and business operations. It is refreshing, however, to see the government’s interest in the island, since the former government of Taksin did only the minimum to support to growth and infrastructure of the island, choosing rather to funnel large sums of money into developing his own hometown of Chiang Mai and its infrastructure.

The idea of an International Convention Center (ICC) in Sapan Hin has been the topic of debate for decades now. Indeed, when the idea was first conceived, one of the first locations to be surveyed was Sapan Hin. When the government finally decided a few years ago to build the ICC in Mai Khao, residents of Phuket town felt betrayed that their beloved city was being bypassed to promote tourism in the far north of the island, which is most inhabited by farmers and small businesses. While the Mai Khao ICC is still steamrolling forward, this decision brings another long-awaited ICC to Phuket town (where most people feel it should have been in the first place) and will inject a burst of life into the seedy hovel which is now Sapan Hin.

Theoretically, this project is a boon for Phuket. Sapan Hin will get a complete makeover and the crime, pollution and mess will be cleaned up once and for all, resulting in a new, modern Phuket Town. The shanty towns (such as the Bang Rong and Kae Rai communities near Koh Sirey) which rim the coastal areas will be cleaned up or shipped out and business will again boom in an area which has long forgotten what it was like to enjoy affluence and wealth.

There are a lot of questions one has to ask however, ranging from how the current infrastructure will cope (such as narrow roads and the relocation of the current municipal sports center) to basics such as how the government will come up with the money to finance such a huge project. The general consensus is that problems like that can be overcome in the future, a mindset which tends to lend to negative repercussions for locals living in the area. Sacrifices will be made and some will be forced to move on to other housing developments or to reduce their properties in order to make way for wider roads, among other things.

No one, however, is complaining about the sacrifices the natural world is being forced to make.

For years, Sapan Hin was trashed, polluted and wasted, with little conscience or feelings of remorse for the ecology. Sapan Hin was once home to thousands of waders, all of which would flock to the mudflats to feed and roost in the wintering months. The mangroves, which rim the southeastern shores from Sapan Hin to Laem Panwa are among the thickest and oldest found anywhere on the island. Ruddy Kingfisher, Mangrove Pitta, Great Billed Heron, Purple Heron and Oriental Darter all suffer today from man’s negligence to protect the earth which God commanded him to care for.

Unchecked pollution streams out of Phuket’s Rassada Harbor, its black river of stench and death oozing into the Bay of Phuket like the puss of an infected sore. Toxic wastewater from Phuket’s Recycle Center was responsible for the loss of over five million baht worth of commercially farmed fish just a year ago. -And just think: many of the fish farmers today still raise their produce in the same infected waters as they did two years ago; how long it will be until we too will fall prey to some deadly virus resulting from our consumption of Sea Perch and Redfin Snapper?

Remember the old Australian adage: What goes around, comes around.

The mudflats are now too polluted to attract the large flocks of waders which used to congregate in the past. The ill-advised decision to cover large areas with sand further hindered the return of many waders, many of which have now moved on. Today small numbers of barely a few hundred are occasionally seen foraging. Ruddy Turnstone, Bar tailed Godwit, Pacific Golden Plover, Terek Sandpiper and Eurasian Curlew are gone for good.

Sapan Hin has been destroyed environmentally. It began with the killing of crocodiles in Bang Yai canal in 1946 and continued with the destruction of mangrove habitat shortly after. With the construction of the Phuket Recycle Center came a slow and painful death for untold thousands of birds, fish and reptiles. It really can’t get much worse than this.

The emergence of the marina and ICC will only act as a coup de grace for the wildlife of Sapan Hin. Their slow and painful demise will be ended once and for all and mankind will forget how life was “the way God had it”. No doubt the environmental report will not hinder these money-thirsty wolves from doing what they intend to do. Let us pray and hope that despite all that man throws at nature, in the future, one who visits Sapan Hin will still be able to hear the sweet, delicate song of the Oriental White-Eye, or enjoy the brilliant colors of the Collared Kingfisher, or admire the persistence of the Whimbrel as it probes its long bill into the mud in an never-ending quest to fill its belly with wholesome food.

Farewell nature. Hello commercialism.

The day was doomed when we awoke to dense rain clouds. The drive to Trang was not going to be a smooth one, and I had scarcely four hours of sleep last night due to a long list of last minute jobs which needed attention. Around the property I could hear the sounds of birds as they scrambled about foraging for food. On the telephone lines outside my window I had three Spotted Dove, a Brown throated Sunbird, a pair of Common Myna, a pair of Olive backed Sunbirds and three Zebra Dove. An Oriental Magpie Robin serenaded us with its lovely song from the roof of our home.We had planned to make a stopover in Khao Prataow National Park to take a few photos but we left the house late and were pressed for time.

We got to Ao Phang Nga National Park an hour later but were turned away by the rain and mud, as well as the heavy construction work that was going on right in from of the nature walk way.

A stopover in Khao Panom Bencha was also crossed off the list due to the unrelenting rainfall.

In the afternoon we had a relative surcease from the rain and were able to check out the Trang Aquarium, which turned out to be quite nice. I think I’ll bring the kids next time. Along the beach (which was very scenic) were large congregations of waders, some of which were very approachable. Eurasian Curlew, Whimbrel, Lesser Sandplover, Little Egret and an Indian Pond Heron in breeding plumage were just a few of the many birds wandering along the wide expanse of open beach.

The drive down Haat Yao was pleasant with little traffic and plenty of birds. Little Egret, Chinese Pond heron, Little Heron, Pacific Reed Egret and other small waders haunted the beach and mudflats along the roadside.

Our next stop was 12 kilometers down the road where we visited Haad Chao Mai National Park (pronounced Haht Jow-mai), known as a former haunt for the Black necked Stork, a fabulous bird which has been extirpated from the region for quite some time. Ian had seen a Buffy Fish Owl in a small gathering of trees near a sandbar and I was hoping to get lucky as well.

The rain began to start up and a full force gale made life interesting. A White-bellied Sea Eagle soared in the sky above, almost as if it were pasted into the sky, its majesty and beauty a marvel unmatched by any other raptor in the region. The owl was not present but a pair of Collared Kingfisher took center stage with their shrill and whinny calls and feisty bickering. A Black capped kingfisher was also present but preferred the quiet of the mangrove trees. A band of monkeys were foraging in a pile of trash and the wardens warned us to keep our distance to avoid getting bitten.

After a quick dinner in Trang we set off for our final destination, Khao Chong Waterfall Forest Park. The area is designated as a protected forest under the supervision of the Forestry Department. This offers a limited amount of protection to the zone, but does not keep the locals from entering the forest to collect fruits, palm, rattan or other forest products, nor does it keep the hunters out. Our bungalows were in state of disrepair and made the term Spartan look rather luxurious! -Again, since the park is not controlled by the National Parks division, the bungalows are not anywhere near living standards which we would expect from most average parks in Thailand.

The road into the park is long and sits adjacent to the stream. Buffy Fish Owl was heard near a bridge but all we saw of it was a shadow flying off into another tree. A Javan Frogmouth was heard as well, but after encountering a 2-meter long Burmese Python on the road we decided not to risk the search, even if I wanted the tick that bad. Three of us also found leeches on our legs and that further cemented the decision to stay put.

A foot-long Tockay Gecko lizard in one of the bedrooms and the discovery of five-inch cicadas proved to us how wild this place really was. Later than evening we also stumbled across a hairy jungle spider the size of a man’s palm creeping around the door.

Freaking monsters!

Day 2:

An early morning walk was not only refreshing but rewarding as well. A short trip around the car park saw two Whiskered Treeswifts in a leafless tree barely three two meters above my head, making sorties as they cleared the skies of insects. A male Blue and White Flycatcher came into view and I first mistakened it for a Small Niltava until better lighting revealed the real colors rather than the silhouette I was looking at. Black headed Bulbul were quite common and a Red throated Barbet was seen clearing a cavity in preparation for nesting. Three Blue Eared Barbets were seen warming up with the few rays of sun available on that wet morning, and a surprise: Chestnut Capped Thrush flew into the boughs of a tall leafless tree to sing a few notes before being chased off by the Whiskered Treeswifts. Puff backed Bulbul was also found, although I had a hard time identifying it at first, since I thought it might have been a large bunting of sorts!

A check into the woods near the stream revealed nothing and there were no signs of the fish owl which was there the night before. Dark throated Tailorbird and Striped Tit-babbler was found foraging in the bamboo. An Asian Brown Flycatcher was seen and a grainy photograph of it was taken, raising the question of whether this bird has been brainwashed into thinking he belonged here or if the cool weather is just deceiving him. Common and White Vented Mynas were seen tearing apart the carcass of a frog which had attempted to cross the road the night before. A quick search in the stream and waterfall came up empty, meaning that I’d have to look for the forktails further upstream.

The English Camp started at 9 AM so I didn’t get in any more birding until the late afternoon, at which time the rains came back and I was limited in birding opportunities.

5 PM was my next free slot for birding after the kids were all off to their bungalows. I decided to stick to the forest near the stream. Brown Streaked Flycatchers were found, and I was able to observe a pair doing a mating ritual: the male caught a large insect and flaunted it to the female, who chased the male around for some time while trying unsuccessfully to take the insect from him. After a while she settled on a branch and the male again teased her with the food, only this time she refused to give chase. He then proceeded to mate with her (three times in all) before finally giving her the insect as payment for her services.

-Funny how in the human world it usually works the other way around.

A green pit viper was also seen in a tree and we respectfully keep a good distance away from this deadly creature.

Chinese Pond Heron, Brown throated Sunbird and Fulvous chested Flycatcher were a few other birds which were seen in the late evening. The two Whiskered Treeswifts were still perched on the same tree by the end of the day, making this spot perhaps the easiest place in Thailand to get up close and personal with a treeswift.

A Mouse Deer was seen crossing the road at 10 PM as we were heading out to get a snack at the nearest convenience store, which happened to be almost 18 kilometers away.

Day 3:

A short morning walk near the bungalows produced Lesser Leafbird, a pair or Asian Paradise Flycatchers and some Ochraceous Bulbuls chattering up a storm. A Gold-whiskered Barbet was near but never found. A Tree Monitor was seen scampering off after we nearly squashed it with our vehicle, making that the third large reptile seen in as many days.

An afternoon hike to Ton Phli waterfall was about the only thing I could have called a birding trip, although one can scarcely call a hike up the mountain with 80 kids a “birding” trip. Black Headed Bulbuls were fairly easy to find and a few Olive backed and Brown throated Sunbirds could be see flying between the trees. At the waterfall we found a group of rowdy locals had set up a somtam parade so we decided to leave them in peace and make our way back. In a stream near the clearing I finally managed to find the Chestnut napped Forktail as it hopped about in search of insects. What a lovely bird!

The walk down was a lot quieter, thanks to the kids who were anxious to get back and shower. Another forktail, which I assumed to have been White crowned Forktail, was flushed in yet another stream but didn’t give good looks. A Hooded Pitta was heard calling but with the rain coming fast and my wife and baby accompanying me, I needed to get back to the campsite quick.

Day 4:

Rain was pouring down all morning, making the camp difficult to manage and silencing any birds which dared to come out into the open. I badly wanted to check out the waterfall once more but we were pressed for time, having a pickup in Klong Thom only a few hours away.

After the pickup, we decided to see if there was anything worthwhile at Khao Nor Chuchi. The drive there was cloudy but we didn’t experience any rain until we got to the Morakot, at which time the rain came down in barrelfuls. After a while things started to calm down so I decided to make a break for the H trail, the only trail I know which will not leave me helplessly lost in a maze of unmarked footpaths.

H trail was very muddy and with the rain still falling steadily, things didn’t look too good. I must have walked about 60 meters up the trail when I heard my first birds for the day, a pair of Black headed Bulbuls. Further up the trail a woodpecker flew over the trail but with the dark clouds overhead, trying to ID the bird was quite impossible. A pair of green pigeons were also seen moving from tree to tree but I could never get good looks at them. I did manage to see Black Capped Babbler, Yellow breasted Flowerpecker, Two barred Warbler and about five other common species.

On the way out the rain stopped for a bit and the bird life exploded, although we were unable to see many birds since they were all calling from the deep interior of the forest. A Large Wren Babbler did reveal itself on the roadside, bidding us a fond farewell and leaving me with an itch to get back to KNCC soon and start chalking more species on my southern birdlist.

We made it to Krabi town late and after a homemade dinner, we settled in for a well-deserved rest.

Day 7:

Days 5 and 6 are not noteworthy as we spent the entire duration of the English Camp indoors whilst being pounded by heavy rains which lashed about the property.

The afternoon drive from Krabi was relatively uneventful, until we got to a gas station near Phang Nga town to tank up. I was walking to 7-11 when I came across a pair of Blue Rock-Thrush feeding on flying termites in the cool evening breeze. It was surprising to see them here so late in the year, but with all the cool weather and plentiful bugs, who needs to move?

Altogether it was a great trip, with plenty of good birds and we hope to get back there to enjoy the cool waterfalls and forests sometime with our kids.

Welcome to Birds of Phuket!

As you may have noticed, this site is not completely operational yet, but I am putting it up so that people can partake of it for now. There have been little postings as of late, and I hope to get the news flowing again.

There are a lot of bugs to iron out and the host has some problems but for now we’re staying put. This happens to be the third host we’ve tried so far in the past two months so we’re hoping it will hold out.

If you are wondering why some of the sites are not reviewed, its most likely because I have not yet assessed the site or haven’t had the time to write something about it. Again, this is a work in progress and I hope that you’ll be alright with that.

Phuketbirder will still be around for another year, although it is now in semi-retirement.

Thank you for reading and I hope you enjoy this new blog and find it helpful.

-Ike

An afternoon trip to the mangroves near Phuket’s Marina was not exactly what I had in mind for a serious birding trip, but I wasn’t going to complain since, after all, the weather would not have permitted me to go too far.

Plenty of fishermen were working their way through the land, stirring up the birds and making our birding time more difficult, but the trail through the primary beach forest was stocked with the usuals: Yellow vented Bulbul, Large billed Crow, Black and Ashy Drongo, Scaly breasted Munia, Common Iora and a screaming Collared Kingfisher. A single Brown Shrike was still present, waiting patiently over a patch of grassland. Someone should remind him what the date is.

The mangroves were quiet and looked as if someone had marched through with a machete and hacked a clear path through the regenerating forest. Man and his ability to do what he wants, whenever he wants just makes me upset.

Played the Mangrove Pitta call, but only attracted a White Vented Myna and a Little Heron, both of which perched in the high branches looking for the caller. Perhaps they are the pitta’s motley hangout gang.

Down at the shore the tide was coming in and the wader life was the best I’ve seen in years. A Greater Sandplover in full breeding plumage took the cake, as did a Purple Heron and a single Schrenck’s Bittern in flight. Whimbrel, Eurasian Curlew, Terek Sandpiper, Lesser and Greater Sand Plover, Common Redshank, Common Greenshank, Broad billed and Curlew Sandpiper and a few Ruddy Turnstone (my favorite) dotted the beach, while upshore a few Little Egrets could be seen feeding. A couple of Common Sandpiper fed in a freshwater pool near the shore.

A spectacular event occurred a few minutes before we headed back: some 200 Ashy and Black Drongos took to the sky presumably to secure themselves good roosting spots for the night, and close to 20 birds were seen harassing a Eurasian Kestrel and later on a Peregrine Falcon. Brahminy Kites, some looking worse than King Tut after they dug him up, flew past on their way to the mangroves. One last scan of the beach brought in a surprise: two Great Knot flew in and landed on the beach in plain view.

The way back was noisy with plenty of humming cicadas. Along the way I nearly steped on a Lanceloated Warbler which almost didn’t care that I was standing scarcely a foot away. Large tailed Nightjars were too common and even my son got to have a good look at them.

A great afternoon of birding and I hope to be back again soon. Hopefully next time I’ll be able to see the Ashy Tailorbird and Mangrove Pitta.

The day started out cloudy as we made for the famous U trail. With the sky threatening to unleash its fury on us, we hoped that we’d be able to get in some good birding before having to beat a hasty retreat back to the Morakot. Thankfully, the rains held up until the late morning when we were already back in the comfort of our bungalows.We guessed where the entrance of the trail was (since the entire KNCC lowland project has gone to pot since the national parks division have failed to do their part by maintaining the trails and signs) and dove into the dark forest. The first gully we crossed (which resembled more of a dried river bed) was home to an Eyebrowed Wren Babbler which was seen hopping along on the forest floor and finally made its way into the crevasse of a rotting log. By 7.30 birds were singing but little was seen. Three times we managed to see a silhouette of a raptor flying over the treetops but we unable to identify them. Our first big break came at a clearing on the edge of the forest where the jungle abruptly ends and a field of oil palm begins. Felled logs mark the boundary between the forest and the plantation, the fallen comrade’s carcasses acting as the only divider between the once widespread forest and the ravages of modernization. Here we were able to find Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Black headed Bulbul and Great Iora moving through the trees in a loose bird wave.

Down the forest trail we marched, deeper into the myriad of trails which crisscross the forest. Sometime back someone had gone through and marked some of the trees along the trail with a red spray can, but some hoodlum, for reasons unknown, went around and crudely scraped the marking off with a machete. We ended up quite lost and finally had to resort to retracing our steps back through the forest and back out to the mouth of U trail. We did manage to find a few good birds, even though our main objective, Gurney’s Pitta, was silent and not to be seen anywhere on the trails that day.

Birds seen were Green Broadbill, Black Bellied Malkoha, Moustached Babbler, Spectacled and Ochraceous Bulbul, Dark throated Tailorbird, Black bellied Malkoha and Scarlet backed Folwerpecker. Birds heard but not seen were Crested Jay, Banded Pitta, Gold Whiskered and Red Throated Barbet.

I was quite disappointed to have seen so few birds in one morning, but I started to count my blessing when another birding team came back from a trek on B trail having only seen six species all morning!

After a few refreshing drinks, we took a look around the gardens of the Morakot, where we found Olive backed Sunbird, Brown throated Sunbird, Streak eared Bulbuls and got up close with Orange bellied Flowerpecker. The staff of the Morakot put out bananas which attract the birds and many of them are almost tame.

The rain came down hard shortly after; thankfully it was lunch time and we were able to eat while the rain unleashed its fury on the land.

After lunch we decided to make our way back to Phuket. Along the roadside we saw White throated Kingfisher, Large billed Crow, Brown Shrike and other more common open-country species.

A stopover at Ao Phang Nga National Park headquarters paid huge dividends when we were able to find Brown Winged Kingfisher and Black and Red Broadbill in the newly-cemented mangrove walkway. Black and Red Broadbill is not an easy bird to find, so we were awed by the beauty of the bird and surprised at the fact that we managed to count five individuals in one location! Sirated Swallow, Cattle Egret, Stripe throated Bulbul, Brahminy Kite, Little Egret and Black Hooded Oriole were also seen.

Both Pink necked and Thick billed Pigeons were seen in flight making their way towards a limestone cliff, presumably to spend the night.

A nice evening dinner on the shores of Nai Yang beach topped off a great trip and even though we dipped on a few “wanted’ species, we can only look forward to being able to see them on a later date. 72 species on the first day and an additional 56 on the second is not something to complain about, even if the weather was a bit grumpy at times.

A two-day birding trip to Phang Nga and Krabi in March allowed me to get away from my work and breathe the fresh, clean air of the forests once more. Our party of five consisted of Daniel and Mary, two birders and nature lovers from Oregon and their friends Alice and Dan, two Americans currently residing in Japan.

Our first stop was supposed to be at dawn in the forests of Sri Phang Nga National Park, but due to late pickups and a trio of highway patrol officers who were looking for a handout for breakfast, we arrived later than anticipated. The entrance was quieter than usual for 7.30 AM but within minutes the sound of a Great Hornbill was heard thundering from the beyond the ridge. It took some time but we managed to find the bird with our bins. Sitting high in a tree with its long beak glistening in the morning sun, the hornbill was never more appreciated as it sat there in all its splendor and beauty. In the trees nearby we picked out two bulbuls, the Black headed and Black Crested, and a few feet down the path the Stripe throated came into view as well.

A Drongo Cuckoo flew in close and Dan caught glimpse of what he assumed was a pitta dashing through the underbrush near a dry stream course. Down the road towards the campsite we found plenty of other good birds such as Vernal Hanging Parrot, Whiskered Treeswift, Chestnut belled Malkoha and the ever busy Asian brown Flycatcher.

At the campsite we had an explosion of bird life, thanks partly to a fruiting fig tree which attracted birds such as Thick billed Pigeon, Asian fairy Bluebird, Black napped Oriole, Red throated Barbet and Blue winged Leafbird. Bulbuls were still aplenty and this time we also came across Red eyed, Grey bellied and Grey eyed Bulbuls. A pair of Scarlet Minivets wowed us with their bright colors as they filtered through the treetops and in the river we found the usual Chinese Pond Heron, Little Heron and Little Cormorant.

The trail down to the waterfall was not as exciting but we did get stunning views of a Crimson Sunbird and enjoyed the company of a few Orange bellied Flowerpeckers, one of my most favorite birds. Around a bend in a bamboo thicket we heard the distinct whirring sound of a Banded Pitta and despite all our attempts to draw it out, it teased us for ten minutes before moving off into the distance, leaving us irritated to say the least! –Well, that’s how birding can be at times!

The walk back was punctuated with the sighting of a Giant Squirrel, a species which has to be seen to be appreciated. –And to see it foraging in the heat of the day was quite a treat!

Brunch was held at the park cafeteria and the food was cheap and delicious.

After seeing over 44 species in a little over three hours, we decided to take a break from the forest and try out Laem Pakarang on the way to Krabi. The tsunami of 2004 reshaped the coastline and added some new décor in the form of large black boulders from the deep seabed, which now litter the formerly flat beach. The waders sure don’t complain about it and most of the boulders now act as islands for the birds fleeing the rising tide. We counted 14 Ruddy Turnstone on one boulder and assorted other waders such as Greater and Lesser Sand Plovers, Whimbrel, Grey Plover and Eurasian Curlew.

Walking down the cape along its coral-covered Sandbar, we came to a smaller sand spit only a few meters from the cape which held large flocks of Eurasian Curlew and roosting terns. From where we were we didn’t get the best looks as the birds were in the distance and we kicked ourselves for not having a telescope, but we prided ourselves for being able to identify most of the birds; Greater Crested, Black napped, Caspian, Common and Little Tern. Further out in the ocean we could see silhouettes of large birds, perhaps gulls or skuas, but again, they were quite a far off.

Back on the road again and this time we were heading for Ao Phang Nga National Park. Along the way we saw Chestnut Capped Bee Eaters, Philippine Glossy Starling and a few other birds which helped to increase Dan and Daniels’ lifers list.

We arrived at the mangrove walkway outside Phang Nga town at around 2 PM and the area was quiet and peaceful. Despite the schools being closed, it appears most people prefer to spend their time doing something other than whittle their time away staring at mangrove trees. Scarcely two minutes after entering the area Dan spotted a Mangrove Pitta lurking about among the roots of a large tree! We all excitedly gathered around and the bird continued to poke around the tree while we all ogled on in excitement scarcely four feet away! The bird was not giving satisfying looks so I played the call on my phone and suddenly the pitta perked up and hopped up onto an exposed perch, unconcerned that it was completely out in the open, giving us amazing looks at this beautiful bird! It continued to stay around, even flying within inches of me as it went in search of the owner of the call. What an experience!

The tall limestone cliffs were good for finding Red-rumped Swiftlets and Edible nest Swiftlet were also in great abundance here.

After a two hour drive we made it to Ao Nang where we took an evening stroll along Haad Nopparat-Tara beach. One of the islands in the distance had two whitish-looking things in a tree so we decided to investigate. Closer inspection revealed that it was indeed what I thought it might be: Pied Imperial Pigeon. As we moved closer, they were scared off by a handsome Brahminy Kite. Along the way we found a Collared Kingfisher, Pacific Reef Egret and a single “White-faced” Plover.

Dinner was held in Krabi town, and afterwards we began the treacherous night drive to Klong Thom where we were booked to stay at the Morakot. The roads are all under renovation and driving at night with all the construction going on about you is not ones idea of safe driving.

Getting to the Morakot was not too difficult; the only thing we didn’t expect was how far it was from the main highway! By the time we got there it was late and we all decided to hit the sack. Sadly, the staff told us the owls which were usually found in the trees of the garden had not showed up for a few weeks and so our planned owl-spotting program had to be shelved.

Overall it was a very blessed day, with over 72 species seen, not to mention the insects, reptiles and other wonderful creatures and people we were able to meet that day.